Tuesday, April 4, 2023

Today was a rainy day in Salta, Argentina. It’s been a while since we’ve heard loud thunder and lightning like we did last night. In fact, this is only the second time we’ve experienced any inclement weather during our two months of travel in Argentina. We’ve really been blessed with incredible weather during this entire trip.

Our plan today was to visit the Museum of High Altitude Archaeology (Museo de Arqueología de Alta Montaña, or abbreviated as MAAM) in downtown Salta. This museum is devoted to three mummies and other artifacts discovered at the top of Llullaillaco Volcano near Salta in 1999. People travel from all over to see this museum in Salta, and our airbnb host recommended we visit so long as the kids wouldn’t be too scared by it. Part of the exhibit features the well-preserved bodies of three children who were discovered at the top of the volcano — it’s graphic, but also a great opportunity to learn about the culture and traditions of the Inca Empire.

Before we left to visit the museum, Andi and I explained to the kids what was on display at the museum so they’d be able to understand the history and cultural significances behind the exhibits. Tory is a big history lover, so I knew she’d be interested in seeing the museum; it was Aden, who tends to be more sensitive about the subject of death, that I worried about.

From our airbnb in San Lorenzo, it took us about 30 minutes to drive into downtown Salta. Driving in big cities is always stressful, especially in a stick shift rental car, and in another country with different “rules of the road.” While Andi physically operates the car, I watch the map and look for oncoming traffic. Throw in road construction, pedestrians, and stray dogs — it’s a lot to maneuver! One thing that’s strange about driving in Argentina is that vehicles do not stop for pedestrians. Can I just say how difficult it is to not stop for people standing in a crosswalk? We can’t stop for them though, or we risk getting honked at or rear-ended. Salta is similar to other Argentinian cities in that there aren’t many stop lights and every car seems to have the “right of way” coming from all directions. Maybe there’s an unspoken rule to it all, but we haven’t figured it out yet.

We successfully navigated into downtown Salta and found an open spot in a parking garage. Thank goodness Andi is proficient in reversing vehicles! From there, we walked three blocks to the MAAM museum across from the 9 de Julio Plaza.

At 11:00am, a long line formed at the entrance of the museum. We waited about 15 minutes to get to the ticket counter, and then paid $800 Argentine pesos ($3.82 USD)/per adult; kids under 12 are free admission. Inside, the same video we watched online before we came to the museum was playing in the theatre. Our family skipped that part since we already saw it, and entered directly into the area with museum exhibits.

The museum wasn’t huge, but I thought it was well done. Artifacts displayed in glass cases were discovered during an expedition on the Llullaillaco Volcano near Salta in 1999. Items such as miniature dolls, toys, bowls, and silverware made with various metals and fabrics give researchers a good account of the activities, roles, and hierarchies within the Inca Empire. These items, along with the three sacrificed children, were sacred offerings to the gods during an Inca ceremony known as Capacocha. Because they were found at such high altitude (6,739 meters, or 22,109 feet elevation), the human remains as well as the items were perfectly preserved over time. The children chosen as sacrifices are believed to be royalty, known for their perfect appearances and high cultural status. The special Capacocha ceremony was performed only in times of distress, likely after the death of a ruler or when the empire believed they needed intervention of their gods.

Researchers say it was an honor for these three children to have been selected for this ritual — a 15-year-old girl, a six-year-old girl, and a seven-year-old boy. They were led up the mountain with a group of adults who cared for them and then performed the sacrificial ceremony. The children were given alcohol to drink (chicha) and likely died from a mixture of intoxication, temperature, and lack of oxygen at high altitude. On the day we visited the museum, “The Boy” was on display. Museum curators keep the mummified children in special capsules that control and maintain temperature, humidity, and pressure. Only one child is showcased at a time for this reason.

Even with all of our pre-reading and research about the mummified children, it was still heartbreaking to see with our own eyes. Our visit to the museum was somber, but also interesting and educational. Andi, Tory, Aden, and I had a meaningful conversation afterwards about our thoughts and observations. As uncomfortable as experiences like that can be, it’s also a valuable learning opportunity for Tory and Aden — and what homeschooling our children is all about. Not only did we learn about the Inca Empire at the museum, but I’m confident it made an impact on Tory and Aden, and will be an experience they remember.

Another exhibit I thought was interesting was a replica of an apacheta. We’ve seen these piles of rocks all around Northern Argentina, and it was interesting to read more about their significance. Apachetas are important shrines dedicated to Pachamama (or Mother Earth). Rocks are gathered together in a pile, as well as glass bottles, coco leaves, cigarette filters, colored wool, or animal bones as a symbolic offering to the earth. Offerings are given in exchange for good travels, strength to go on, health, and the allowance to enter into a new place. Many apachetas are built in August when offerings to Pachamama (Mother Earth) are given. Past inhabitants of this area, as well as Argentines today, deeply believe in respecting Mother Earth and presenting gifts to her in exchange for prosperity.

The corridor outside the museum was packed with tourists and vendors selling street food, candy, and trinkets. There were also a few cambios standing around acting very nonchalant. As we walked by one, a guy chanted “cambio cambio” under his breath. These cambios, or personal money exchangers, are interested in trading Argentine pesos for US dollars at the Blue Rate exchange. Andi knew there would be money exchangers downtown today, so he approached one to make a transaction. The cambio said he’d give us $400 Argentine pesos for $1 USD (which is about $20 pesos higher than the going rate right now). Andi gave the man four crisp $100 US bills and in return, the money exchanger handed Andi several stacks of pesos from his money bag. It feels so weird exchanging money this way, but it sure beats waiting in line for hours at a Western Union! Exchanging money through a cambio or at Western Union gives us a better exchange rate for our US dollars than if we’d go to a local bank or ATM.

Next, we walked around Plaza 9 de Julio and viewed the cathedral. We didn’t go inside. Andi and Tory were hungry for lunch, so we walked along a pedestrian street in downtown Salta for a few blocks until we found a typical Argentine restaurant serving pizza, empanadas, and milanese. Andi ordered the lunch special which included a piece of meat, French fries, and bread pudding for dessert. Tory and Aden agreed to split a pizza. Argentina does not have good pizza, which surprises me given their strong Italian heritage. All of their pizzas are a think breaded crust with very little sauce, topped with a tasteless white cheese and green olives. Tory says the first thing she wants to eat when she gets back to the United States is a pizza with sauce on it.

After lunch, we drove back to our airbnb in the suburb of San Lorenzo. Andi had a lot of work to do this afternoon so he sat on the sofa with his laptop and headphones while Tory, Aden, and I did schoolwork at the table.

When the neighbor kids came home from school, they invited Tory and Aden over to play with them in the yard shared by our airbnb and their house. All the kids had a great time playing soccer together, and jumping on the trampoline. It started to rain again, but that didn’t stop them. Both Tory and Aden were soaked from head to toe, but had so much fun.

Two months in Argentina, and suddenly this boy enjoys a cup of hot tea. Especially after playing in the rain... which, in hindsight, probably wasn’t the best remedy for the head cold he picked up in Purmamarca.

Andi made sloppy joes for dinner with French fries, broccoli, and carrots. The kids gobbled it up after an afternoon of playing outside. It did taste really good to eat a meal that tasted like “home.”

Tomorrow is Wednesday, so it’s a work & school day. We don’t have much else planned for the day.