Wednesday, April 12, 2023

Last Wednesday on the road. Andi had a full day of work meetings today, so Tory, Aden, and I hunkered in our airbnb’s downstairs bedrooms. The internet isn’t particularly fast at this house which means only Andi can be on it. Fortunately, I can write these blog posts without internet (save and publish them later). The kids grumble about having to watch downloaded episodes of their favorite TV shows over and over, but there’s not much else to do. We’re staying on the outskirts of town so walking to go somewhere isn’t an option and none of us can drive our stick shift rental car except Andi.

The kids and I spent a good chunk of our day doing school work. Sometimes we all do it together, and other days I do school with Tory and Aden individually. I prefer this actually, even though it takes more time, because otherwise my head feels like it’s on a swivel between the two kids.

Today is our final day in this airbnb, but we still have one day left before we depart Argentina for the USA. Our original travel plan was to go home in early May, and spend the last two or three weeks of our trip in another country on our way home. However, Andi decided he needed to be “in person” for some meetings happening at work next week, so we booked flights home for this Friday. This left one open day in our travel plan, and it was going to be $250 for us to stay in this airbnb for one more night. No thank you! This place hasn’t been that spectacular anyway, so we’re definitely not paying $250 to stay here one more night.

So, I spent the rest the my afternoon packing our bags in preparation for departure tomorrow morning. Andi booked us a one-night stay in another gated community in Cafayate for tomorrow night. We considered traveling back to Salta tomorrow night (where the airport is), but we didn’t want to deal with the busy city traffic. Plus, we saw everything we wanted to see in Salta when we stayed there for a few days last week. The simplest choice was to stay one final night in Cafayate before making our long travels home.

When Andi finished work around 6:00pm, the four of us hopped into our rental car and drove downtown for dinner. I can’t believe I’m saying this, but we’re “wined out” after visiting so many bodegas in Cafayate the past week. Andi and I needed a change of pace for dinner tonight, so we picked a place for dinner called Pacha Cocina. Of course, they’re not open for dinner service at 6:00pm (this is Argentina, after all!) so the four of us wandered around downtown Cafayate until the restaurant opened.

Tory tried to convince Andi to let her get ice cream before dinner. “Come on, Dad, it’s one of the last times we can ever eat Argentina ice cream…” but no dice. Andi didn’t fall for her tricks. Instead, we stopped into Calchaquitos to try some of their alfajores cookies — I’d read this the best place to buy them in town. We bought a few different flavors of bombons and alfajores cookies — dulce de leche, nuts, and fig — and split one of them amongst the four of us to try. They were really tasty! I wouldn’t say that I’m in love with alfajores cookies the way Argentinians are, but I do find it interesting that the cookies are different in each region of the country. Some are covered in milk chocolate, some have a powdered sugar outside, and some are filled with dulce de leche or other jams.

The minutes ticked by slowly as we walked around downtown Cafayate waiting for the restaurant to open. Tory had the brilliant idea that we should get Aden a haircut while we waited — an idea that he absolutely hated. Aden is very specific about his hair, and only likes the barber in our hometown to cut it. However, his hair is so think and grows so quickly that he looks like a ragamuffin without a proper cut. Every town in Argentina has a barber, and they are cheap! It’s $3 USD for a haircut in Argentina vs. $25 at our hometown barber. And, they do a great job here!

The four of us walked across the square to the barbershop, but unfortunately it was closed when we arrived. Aden was elated, but then a man came out from a nearby business and pointed to a sign on the door listing a telephone number. Andi sent a WhatsApp message to the number, and the barber responded by saying he would be re-opening his shop at 8:00pm. (Siesta time hours; after 10 weeks in Argentina, I still don't understand their business hours here). Andi made Aden a haircut appointment for 10:00pm tonight which caused Aden to throw a bit of a tantrum on the walk through town to the restaurant. He just couldn’t understand why he had to get a haircut here when he could wait a few more days to get his haircut at home. Andi tried his best to explain to Aden that it was cheaper here, and why not? He could get in for a haircut tonight. Their conversation ended with Aden pouting for the next few minutes until his mind moved onto something else.

I didn’t eat much for lunch today, so I was practically wintering away in place waiting for the restaurant to open. I made Andi stop and buy a tortilla de queso from a street vendor in downtown Cafayate. I just needed a little snack before dinner, and her grill smelled so good. The warm tortilla stuffed with melted cheese hit the spot. $200 Argentine pesos (or $.92)

At 7:30pm, the doors to Pacha Cocina de Autor Restaurant finally opened. Of course, we were the first customers there as locals don’t normally eat dinner until 10:00pm or 11:00pm. The weather was a perfect temperature tonight, so we decided to sit in the restaurant’s outdoor courtyard. They had blankets on the back our chairs which Aden and Tory loved. Those two giggled and messed with each other until our food arrived which left Andi and I wondered why we felt so guilty leaving them back at the airbnb during all those winery dinners.

Both our dinner and service at Pacha Cocina Restaurant was excellent. Andi ordered pork belly tacos which all four of us loved. Tory, Aden, and I each had steak for our meal.

After dinner, we drove across town to the barbershop for Aden’s haircut appointment. It’s amazing how alive the town becomes after 9:00pm. People were out shopping, kids playing, and every business was open. Aden was still reluctant about getting his haircut in Cafayate, but Andi led him inside the barbershop anyway. The owner didn’t speak English, but Andi showed him a picture of Aden’s hair and the guy gave him a thumbs up. Andi told me later than there was music blaring and a strobe light going inside.